When we get out of our taxi brousse in Ranohira, the gateway to Isalo, we are immeditely assaulted by guides. Arranging a three-day hike in Isalo turns out to be straightforward, and we enjoy the views of the east side of the mountain range of the park from our pleasant accommodation. Early next morning, we set off for the hike to the canyons which we can already see in a distance. The walk through the sloping fields on which people work, with the vertical walls of the sandstone mountains of Isalo on our left, is a very pleasant one, and your best introduction to the park. There are a few rivers to cross, but only one where we have to take off our shoes. After a short break at our beautiful camp where the porter has not arrived yet, we continue to the Canyon des Rats, which we explore until the boulders become too difficult to pass. We see tombs, both at our level but also high up on the rock face. We walk alongside the mountain wall to the Canyon des Makis, where we have lunch at a natural pool with the royal shower: water dripping from above. Exploring the canyon until we reach the royal bath is easy, and I take a shower and dip in the royal shower. Despite the name (maki means lemur) we do not see any animal. The walk back gives us beautiful warm light over the landscape.
The next morning, we start by walking back the same path we took the day before, and then continue on a climb up the cliffs. We are rewarded by great views very soon, and the higher we get, the bigger the reward. We are climbing to the top of the wall, and start to wonder what will come after that. The answer is: more spectacular views! Here, it is clear to see the enormous forces of nature which have shaped Madagascar: rocky shelves pushed up from the earth, pinnacles, canyons, rocky mountains. We take our time to enjoy the views, spot two tiny scorpions, before we continue down the mountain into the plain. It is sometimes hard to focus on the trail, as our eyes are glued to the scenery around us. We find a lunch spot at a pass, and I cannot resist and climb a rocky outcrop for even better views. I can see our trail continue. We see several elephant's foot, which look like the bonsai version of baobabs, and the guide points out several other endemic plants, birds, and animals (a few chameleons, for instance). A few more hours of hiking takes us to Namaza, passing the Cascade des Nymphes, and following a mountain river. We are just in time to see three types of lemurs at camp, before the cute animals disappear through the thick forest. The other wildlife here is a sleeping boa.
The next morning, we take a trail up the plateau again, and work our way up with the sun burning in our necks. Again, breathtaking scenery, steep mountain cliffs, and then, the plain with trees. We see one of the many tombs here, cross a river, and then reach the Piscine Naturelle, a small waterfall with a tiny tree-filled canyon. When we walk further up, we see another small tomb typical for the region, the casket studded with small coins; our guide claims it must have been a child. When we walk through an opening in the mountain, we see the plains ahead of us. To our surprise, we are back in Ranohira just after noon - and feel disappointed. Strangely enough, the park office does not help us, and I decide to hike back to Namaza again. Taking shortcuts, it only takes 40 minutes to reach, and I am just in time to see more lemurs. I now realize our guide has "forgotten" to show us two pools, and I hike up to the Piscine Bleue and Noire. A beautiful walk, and even more beautiful spots to take time to relax before the sun is blocked by the mountains. I walk back to Ranohira as fast as I can, am lucky to find a French family heading south, who take me to the Isalo window. The landscape of high grasses and light coloured mountains turns golden just before sunset. The place is flooded with visitors, and to my surprise, very few people are at the window when the sun actually sets. The next morning, it turns out that leaving Ranohira is not that easy, while the park officials and guides turn out unpleasant. Isalo remains a natural highlight of Madagascar, but unfortunately, the atmosphere around it in Ranohira has all the signs of a badly managed tourist place.
Around the World in 80 Clicks
Personal travel impressions both in words and images from Isalo National Park (Madagascar). Clicking on the pictures enlarges them and enables you to send the picture as a free e-card or download it for personal use, for instance, on your weblog. Or click on the map above to visit more places close to Isalo National Park. Read more about this site.