After an early morning visit to Shipwreck Beach just north of Luanda, we take on the long drive to the east, passing N'Dalatando on the way. The further we travel, the more beautiful the landscape, with a baobab forest and modest mountains replacing the plains near the coast. We drive through the village of Kalandula, and know we are getting close to our destination. Then, the road ends, we get out, and walk to a viewpoint with the sound of falling water in the background. When we step into the old concrete structure, the view leaves us speechless. Before our eyes, we see Kalandula Falls in their full beauty, with a bright rainbow in the spray below. These are the second or third biggest waterfalls of Africa (depending who you believe), and even though it is dry season, the view is so beautiful we stay for a while to watch the scenery in silence.
We walk a little upstream, over round rocks, in which the rain has managed to carve out circular holes, people have carved hearts and messages, to the very edge of the falls. From here, we feel the power of the Kalandula Falls, and also see the Lucala river flowing down into the plains below. This would be a crowded place in many other countries, but apart from a few locals, we are the only visitors. Our driver takes us to the other side of Kalandula Falls, which seems close but is a more than 30km drive, to the pousada that has reopened two years before after having been abandoned for decades due to the civil war. The views are stunning, and we walk through plantations, take a steep path down to the base of the falls and walk under the spray to a slippery rock with views of the falls.
We walk to the eastern side of the falls, where we find natural pools where locals are taking a refreshing dip. The man who showed us the way indicates we can continue, and I end up walking behind him over rocks, wading through fast-flowing water and balancing on narrow wooden poles to reach the other side of Kalandula Falls. We are back at the pousada just before nightfall. The sound of Kalandula Falls is a pleasant background sound for the entire night, and when we wake up, we realise that there are not many rooms with such stunning views. During breakfast, the sun pierces through the clouds, and lights the spray at the base of the falls. We drive down to the base again, and find the wind has changed, so even the viewpoint-rock is now dry. The view of the 105 metres high and 400 metres wide Kalandula Falls is truly majestic - and the last view we have before we turn around.
Around the World in 80 Clicks
Personal travel impressions both in words and images from Kalandula Falls (Angola). Clicking on the pictures enlarges them and enables you to send the picture as a free e-card or download it for personal use, for instance, on your weblog. Or click on the map above to visit more places close to Kalandula Falls. Read more about this site.