Personal travel impressions in stories and pictures from Kasubi Tombs, Kampala, Uganda. Click on the pictures to enlarge, send as a free e-card, or download for personal use. You can locate Kasubi Tombs and navigate the world using Google Earth
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N 0° 19.747 E 32° 33.197
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Visited: February 2011
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A friendly Ugandan girl was nice company on my way to Kampala that morning, and she arranged a boda-boda to take me directly to the Kasubi tombs. Once on the back of the motorbike, I felt exhilarated: the weather was nice, people sympathetic, I was on my way to a place I had never been. Once we had left the terrible traffic mess of central Kampala and the air started flowing through my hair, it all gave me a feeling of freedom. All too soon, we arrived at the entrance gate of the Kasubi tombs, my first goal of the day. Looking like a sturdy hut with thatched roof that can be seen in other places in Africa, I soon realized that this structure was much stronger and of high quality.
I was met by a tall Ugandan who presented himself as a guide, and who walked me to the ticket office. In an adjacent room, he explained the history of the Bugandan kingdom and the former Kabakas, or kings, all of which had their special stories. The guide proved very capable of making a complete novice like me understand the fascinating history of the kings of the Bugandan kingdom. It made me see what enormous developments the Bugandan kings had seen since the first king ascended to the throne in 1835 and how they all reacted in a different way. Since Uganda achieved independence in 1962, the position of the Bugandan king has obviously changed; my guide also explained me about the various political leaders the country has known since.
After the introduction, someone outside dressed in traditional attire was playing a drum as people entered the courtyard. They appeared to be royals as well. Consequently, my guide took me to the Ndoga Obukaba, the Drum House where the royal drums are kept. For every occasion, like the birth of a royal, a wedding, funeral, etc., there is a different drum. We were able to have a look inside, and the drums looked awesome: some of them more than a hundred years old! My guide also explained the way the buildings are made, using reed, bamboo and sticks making for lasting buildings. As I expected to be able to enter the main courtyard, my guide explained that this was, unfortunately, not possible after the awful fire that had destroyed the main building where the actual tombs of the former kings were located. He also explained all the irreplaceable items that had been consumed in the flames. From a distance, I could see the ruins of the Muzibu Azaala Mpanga of which nothing remained. People were kneeling right in front of it. Right then and there, I decided to come back here once the main building will be rebuilt.
