Africa

[Visited: May 2013]

When I arrived in Léconi in the afternoon in the bright sunlight, I called the guy who had been recommended in Franceville, to see if he could take me to the canyons in the region. This proved impossible: his car had broken down. The lady in the hotel I was staying at, promised to call someone, but I didn't hear from here, so I went walking around town myself. A visit to the canyons requires a 4WD, and I approached the first pick-up truck I saw driving around. The guy seemed friendly enough, and told me he could take me the next day. He stopped a friend who drove by in a 4WD, who offered to take me right away, but since there was lightning all around town, I decided it would be better to wait until the next day. They also told me that the track to the white canyon I wanted to visit, was in such a bad condition that they didn't want to go there; also, that the green canyon was of limited interest. Walking through the quiet town that has some remarkable buildings, like a cinema that is slowly deteriorating and not operational anymore, only because the projector has a broken lamp.
On my way around town, I came across a curious assembly of traditional buildings; it turned out to be a museum. The guy in charge organized a trip to the canyons, and despite my request to leave before 7, the guys showed up only at 7.45. Fortunately, the skies were still cloudy; when we reached the turnoff, I could see some blue patches above us. We drove through some high grass, and now entered the landscape of the Batéké Plateau: rolling green hills, trees here and there, and unobstructed views. The driver was negotiating the sandy track at a very low speed, and I loved it. I wondered where the canyon could be: I only saw green hills around me. I had been warned for robbers who hide in the bushes at the canyon, trying to take advantage of visitors, and breaking their windows; our driver stayed in the car. The guy who had arranged everything, had shown up with two other friends in the back of the truck, and I didn't like it somehow. But as soon as I stepped out of the car, I forgot about it.
Below me, a wonderful scene of natural beauty unfolded. A crack in the earth, eroding red and white rock and sand, layered colours. It was not possible to descend into the canyon; according to the locals, mysterious things happen in the canyon, spirits live inside, and those who enter, never return. I had been keen on climbing down into the canyon, but the slopes are very steep and not solid. I realized that it must indeed not be easy to go down here. Fortunately, there is a trail along the edge of the canyon, leading to a second, much smaller, one. I knew, from visits to other canyons, that the formations we saw below us, were actually much taller than they seemed. Reddish skyscrapers made by nature. On the far side, I could see a small lake, with trees growing well into the canyon; their fresh green appearance (it had rained most of the night) contrasting strongly with the dry, solid rocks. The sun finally broke, adding shadows and deepening the colours. There was a myriad of small yellow grasshoppers jumping around wherever I walked. At first, the guide and his friends had bothered me a little too much, but after I let them know I wanted to enjoy the scenery alone, they respected me. I considered walking back in the afternoon: it is an easy to find location, but a little far from town. Instead, I installed myself at the immigration office some 7k before Léconi, where I got my exit stamp, and waited for a pickup truck to take me into neighbouring Congo. Off to new adventures.

Around the World in 80 Clicks

inspiring you to travel

Léconi canyon (Gabon)

Léconi canyon > Gabon > Africa

[Visited: May 2013]

Around the World in 80 Clicks