Again, I was surprised that the minibus from Grenville left with almost no passengers; I had anticipated a long wait because we were only four. The downside, however, appeared soon enough: the driver never exceeded 20km/h, while his assistant personally asked all people in the street if they wanted to come along to the north. Only one woman joined, and I wondered how they could ever make money in this way. Anyway, this road was new to me, and I especially liked the stretch where the road followed an old rim (of a volcano?), with views on either side. Not long after that, we stopped at River Sallee, the main crossroads in the north of Grenada, and I got off. To be honest, I had embarked on a vague plan of hiking from here to Levera Beach, at the very north of the island, calculating the distance just using a sketchy map. Perhaps I would find someone to take me along; otherwise, I might be in for a long hike. To be sure, I set off in a high pace, and soon I was walking alone, enveloped in the green landscape of the island.
It did not take more than 20 minutes before I reached some cliffs, and I entered a panoramic view of the coastline. Before my eyes, I saw a rugged beach on which waves were crushing, I heard the eternal song of the surf, and in a distance, I discovered small islands off the coast, as well as a pointy hill behind the rolling landscape in front of me. I was about to arrive at Bathways Beach, a small collection of houses along the northeastern coast of Grenada. With plenty of space around, the houses all have space around them, giving the place a relaxed feel. Of course, the breeze coming off the sea, the palm trees, and the fact that there is virtually no one around feeds that sensation, too. I walked through the village, and met a friendly old man working his front garden, who called himself Mr. Satan. After a pleasant talk about politics, sports, and the pros and cons of living in Grenada (Satan was born in Zimbabwe or, as he was adamant to point out, Rhodesia), I continued walking north. Once again, the road was surrounded by forest, and when I reached an opening, I walked to the cliffs from which I had a great view of the cliffs below; a wilder seascape than before.
Here, the waves crush on rocks, colliding with new waves as they recede, and there is not a speck of sand in sight. The view is great, with both Sandy Island and Green Island at a good swimming distance. From here, it did not take long until I reached Levera Beach itself. Completely empty and desolate, this is where turtles come to lay their eggs in the season. The beach curves around the northern coast of Grenada, and on the eastern side, a rocky, holed coast makes for spectacular wave-watching: the waves hammer the rocks and are blown high up in the air. Right across a small channel is Sugar Loaf Island with its peculiar shaped hill - the very hill I had seen since a long time on my hike here. The water looked irresistible, and I went in for a refreshing dip. It was tempting to swim to Sugar Loaf island, but even though there was no one around, I did not want to risk leaving all my stuff on the beach. So it was that I hiked back, and visited the nearby mangrove swamp around Levera Pond, where I saw plenty of birds, but also noticed lots of movement in the surface of the lake. On my way back, I saluted my friend Mr. Satan, before hiking back to River Sallee.
Personal travel impressions both in words and images from Levera Beach (). Clicking on the pictures enlarges them and enables you to send the picture as a free e-card or download it for personal use, for instance, on your weblog. Or click on the map above to visit more places close to Levera Beach.
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