Hazrat e Mazumeh,
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On our way to Esfahan, we stopped over at the city of Qom, house to one of the holiest places in Iran. Hazrat e Mazumeh, built in the 9th century, is a large complex constructed under the famous Shah Abbas I in memory of the deceased Fatemeh. From a distance, you can see its golden cupola shine in the Iranian sun. Close to it, the question is whether you can enter or not.
For some reason, we were allowed to enter this place, although my female colleagues had to dress up in a cloth covering even more than just their veil. Some very fine examples of Islamic art can be found here - which becomes apparent for instance in the minarets, the detailed and precious tiles, doors and ornaments of buildings. 
When we reached the inner square, we found ourselves in a huge gathering. The atmosphere was fascinating and oppressive at the same time. People carrying flags, huge metal objects with coloured feathers, men singing (women are not allowed to sing as this may be seductive). With several things happening at the same time, it was difficult to follow everything that was happening around us - a true invasion of the senses. A friendly guard finally guided us out of the crowd and the square towards the exit. It was time for our heartbeat to get back to normal again.
