When I reach the entrance of Tughlaqabad Fort, and pay the rickshaw driver the fee we agreed on, I then notice that the entrance fee of the fort is 200 rupees, which is exactly the money I have left from a previous visit. I decide to first explore the ruins, and then worry about the total lack of money (caused by a serious cash problem since the government banned the bigger notes, two of which are in my pocket, but completely worthless). I walk up the stairs, enter through a gate, reject the offers made by guides, and turn left, along a wall. Part of it is arched, and leads to a baoli, a stairwell I step though one of the arches, to reach the edge of the high, sturdy walls I have seen from below when I approached with the rickshaw just before. Below, I see the ruins of the palace, and beyond the enormous defensive towers of the inner fortress.
After walking down, I walk through the bush to another section of a ruined wall with arches. After climbing over a wall, I reach the floor of what once must have been a big building, with pillars. Was this part of a palace? When I look over the wall, I see many more ruined walls, overgrown with bushes. I walk up a hill for some good views over the ruins and the fortress which lies still higher. Walking down again, I reach a wide pathway which leads to the upper level of the fortress. A big circular defensive tower with an arched wall inside stands at the beginning of a long wall with arches. When I walk inside the fort, I climb to the highest towers. I now see the people I have seen from a distance: the fort turns out to be a place to hang out, for individuals, but certainly also for couples who look for peace here. From the top of one of the towers, I see the modern side of Tughlaqabad, dwellings below, with a lot of trash around.
The inner part of the fort contains a rectangular mosque, and a decorated arched gate leading to nowhere. There are more towers to explore here, and after walking through an opening in the wall, I reach the outer wall again. Below, I see the traffic on the busy road, and beyond, the mausoleum of the founder of the fort: Ghiyath al-Din Tughlaq, hardly visible because of the serious smog that is currently laying a thick layer over the Indian capital. After exploring the secret passageway, which is like a tunnel under the ruins, I descend to the entrance again, cross the road, and walk the causeway to the mausoleum of Ghiyath al-Din Tughlaq. In a grass courtyard, surrounded by arched walls, towers the square, red-and-white stone mausoleum. Inside, three tombs: the central, white tomb is of Ghiyath al-Din Tughlaq himself, and to his side, his wife and son. The sun filters through the openings in the stone window above, and falls right on his tomb. Behind, I find an octagonal mausoleum with the tomb of Zafar Khan, a 13th century Indian general. In ne of the arched walls, I find a small white tomb, which according to an Indian caretaker, contains the remains of the dog of Ghiyath al-Din Tughlaq. I now walk through the new part of Tughlaqabad to the metro station, where I discover that my metro card fortunately still contains sufficient credit for a ride.
Around the World in 80 Clicks
Personal travel impressions both in words and images from Tughlaqabad Fort (India). Clicking on the pictures enlarges them and enables you to send the picture as a free e-card or download it for personal use, for instance, on your weblog. Or click on the map above to visit more places close to Tughlaqabad Fort. Read more about this site.