Europe

[Visited: June 2020]

Heavy rain is falling as we near Cherven, the small village close to our destination, Cherven fortress (Red fortress). We see men playing games under a cover. When we park the car, the rain has slowed into a drizzle, so we go up straight away. The path runs close to the steep rock face which offers us some protection. When we reach the entrance at the eastern side, a herd of goats rushes past, behaving like a group of school students on an outing, with all the accompanying noise you might expect from goats. The eastern wall is massive, up to three metres thick. The inner wall was constructed in the 6th century, while the outer wall dates back to the 13th century. Once inside, we come to an open area, where grass grows between the many ruined buildings. The entire plateau was covered by the fortress at its heyday. Now, only foundations and some lower walls remain.
While exploring the medieval fortress, we notice more and more sheep coming in. Then, the shepherd turns up, and tries to ask us something. We do not understand, and he seems not amused. Finally, a black dog turns up, doing a half-hearted attempt to get the herd back together, but the green graas is too much of a temptation for most. The views around are splendid, even on this grey day, and it is no surprise that the Thracians already settled here. It grew to be an important fotress during the first Bulgarian Empire, was occupied by Byzantines, overrun by the Mongol Golden Horde, and eventually conquered by the Ottomans at the end of the 14th century. Despite its location, its importance dwindled, and the site was abandoned. Excavations are still going on here.
There is an abundance of ruins of small churches, some very close to each other. The northern fortification wall is largely gone: its stones used in houses. The royal palace lies in ruins: it was once defended by walls and defensive towers. Now, you can still see the outline, see yet another church inside, but almost all of the former structure is gone. A helpful signboard helps your imagination with a drawing. When we reach the west side of Cherven, we see a cover over another church, and the western fortification wall. Above it rises the impressive, square Western Battle tower which has survived the onslaught of enemies and climate. it is so well preserved, that it serves as a blueprint for medieval Bulgarian defensive architecture, and was used as an example i the recostruction of Baldwin's tower in Tsarevets fortress in Veliko Tarnovo. The rain is falling harder on us now, and we descend to the valley of the Lom river. On our way, we find the southern water supply of Cherven Fortress. Water was taken from a nearby source, and carried up the steps (dubbed the King's Stairs) hewn in the steep flanks of the rocky outcrop on which the fortress is built, leading straight to a cistern in the fortress.

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Cherven fortress > Bulgaria > Europe

[Visited: June 2020]

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