Europe

[Visited: August 2020]

Based in Kakopetria, right in the middle of the Troodos mountain region, one of my focal points is to explore the painted churches of the region. I end up spending one day driving around the cluster of churches to the west, and another, longer day visiting those towards the east. After coming down an early Sunday morning, I find out that the Agios Nikolaos tis Stegis is closed, and when I come back a few hours later to the 11th century church, I find several cars parked. There is a strict no-picture policy for the interior, and I get a first taste of the richly decorated interior of the churches that look fairly plain from the outside, because of their stone structure. I drive to Pedoulas, and when I follow the signs for the church, I miss the small structure on my right, and end up driving down a steep, winding cobble-stone street, far too narrow to turn around. At the bottom of the street, I turn, and then find out that my small car is hardly capable to drive up the inclined street. I am relieved when I can finally park my car and walk to the church.
Contrary to the previous one, this Archangel Michael church is empty, but fortunately, I find it open. It is a much smaller church, immediately giving an intimate feeling. I study the frescoes on the wall, and see one depicting priest Vassilios Chamados, flanked by his wife and daughters, offering a model of the church to Christ. The priest was the donor of the church, above it, I see the dedicatory inscription giving 1474 as the year the church was founded. I find a fresco with a naked Jesus, his feet still in the river Jordan, surrounded by fish and followers. This is a lovely church, and I am curious about the others, and the next is pretty close, in Moutoulas, just a few kilometres away: the Panagia, or Virgin, church. I find a Russian couple inside, who are happy when I switch on the lights. This, again, is a small church, was built in 1280, and its inside frescoes are more damaged. Its exterior has some splendid murals, and the old carved wooden door is a beauty. When the couple leave, I enjoy having some time for myself in this jewel.
The next church is part of an active monastery: Agios Ioannis Lambastides. Contrary to the previous small churches, this is much bigger, and has quite a crowd. The interior is splendid, but photography strictly forbidden, and some monks are keeping an eye on my camera. After a short visit to the modern church of Kykkos, I continue my exploration of the painted churches more to the east the next day. I start south of Nikitari, where I find the Panagia Phorviotissa, another small church, which has a very attractive exterior. It is Monday, and I am happy to find it open. Inside, I find the now familiar frescoes, dating from the 12th to the 17th century, very well executed. There is a caretaker, who is eating bread while I enjoy the art on the walls. Instead of taking the long way back west, I decide to follow the untarred road which, considering the small, powerless car I am driving in, turns out to be an adventure in itself, through valleys and over a dusty mountain pass. I am happy when I see the asphalt again, and drive straight to Palaichori, where I find the church closed. I drive the attractive landscape back to the west, find the Timios Stavros closed as well, and make my way north to Lagoudhera, where I find the large Panagia tou Arakou church. A woman and her daughter at the entrance are nervously pleading not to take any pictures, and I end up leaving my camera with them. The woman is smart, and still follows me inside, so taking pictures with my phone is not possible. Its walls hold the history of the 12th century church itself, and inevitably murals with the Virgin mother (Panagia means virgin in Greek). Such beautiful frescoes, and I carry their beauty in my head. I am just in time: when I walk out of the church, and pick up my camera, the women close the door behind me.

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Painted churches Troodos region (Cyprus)

Painted churches Troodos region > Cyprus > Europe

[Visited: August 2020]

Around the World in 80 Clicks

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