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Sooner than I had expected, I came across the first nomads after leaving the city of Xining, capital of Qinghai province. As soon as we reached the Tibetan plateau, I could see lonely tents scattered in the countryside. The further and higher I got, the more often I saw nomadic tents - but I did not see many nomads, and sometimes, the tents seemed to be empty. It was only when reaching the Bayanka-la or Trawo-la Pass, the border between Amdo and Kham country, that I saw two nomads on their horses. They looked so marvellous I went after them, and a friendly but wordless "conversation" followed, after which they rode off into the emptiness of the Tibetan landscape. 
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