[Visited: April 2025]
- After having explored the tanneries in the city, and the bustling markets which give us the impression they must have looked pretty similar a long time ago, we have also explored the fascinating Gidan Makama museum which introduces us to the rich history of this legendary city. This history goes back millennia: Kano grew as a trading city, on trade routes across the Sahara, linking northern Africa to the Atlantic coast further south. Still now, it is the second largest city of Nigeria. It has been populated by both Hausa and Fulani people. The centuries-old Hausa Kingdom was replaced through a Fulani jihad, which established an Sokoto Caliphate in Kano in 1805.
- The British waged war on this Caliphate, and in the early 20th century, the Kano Emirate was established, as a means to pacify the north of Nigeria. We make an early start and drive up to the entrance of the Emir Palace, with remarkably green trees lining the road leading up to the entrance gate. A pleasant breeze cools us. Our guide has done his preparations: a special guide dressed in crisp white dress is waiting for us at the gate and welcomes us to the complex of the palace. He starts by recounting the history of the family of the Emirs. Once we are inside the compound, he is helped by pictures on a wall. In chronological order, it shows all the emirs since the establishment of the Emirate. The guide makes a point of giving their names, and explaining the relationship of every Emir to previous ones: son, father, brother, uncle. Female emirs are unheard of. By the time we have reached the picture of the current Emir, we are at the proper entrance of the palace. I wonder where they will put pictures of future Emirs.
- We now start exploring the palace proper. It is clear that every effort has been made to make it look well decorated, well funded, artistic and with a clear identity. We see waiting rooms, where guests are received for an appointment with the Emir. Wherever we go, the walls are intricately decorated with patterns and recurring symbols of the Emirs. We see the seats which only the Emir is allowed to use: every hall we come to, has a more luxurious version. Then, we reach the main hall, with a dazzling ceiling, finely decorated lanterns, and a proper throne at the head. It is a little odd, though, to be alone in all these grandiose halls and rooms, to have all these impressive quarters to ourselves, not to see any employee, any staff, anyone related directly to the Emir who clearly is not here now. It would have been interesting to shake hands with this Nigerian royalty.
