- After hours of driving through quite empty landscapes in South Africa, we cross the border at Caledonspoort. It turns out to be a smooth process, and we are soon on our way north in the country I had only been to once before. We drive the A1, a main road in Lesotho although it feels like a rural road. We cross villages, stop for people and cattle crossing the road, and meanwhile enjoy the views of the hilly landscapes under always warmer afternoon light. Most other cars seem to be on the way to the Afriski area further down the road, and the idea that we are close to a ski area makes me a little nervous. Then, our navigation app tries to send us down a dirt track, and we decide to see if there is another way. Indeed, a little further on we find a narrow road down the slopes, and park at the entrance of the Liphofung caves.
- It turns out there is a small resort with huts and all, and a lady welcomes us in. We pay our entrance fee, get a guide, and walk down into the fold of the mountain while our guide starts explaining. We pass a young couple who are embracing and kissing, sitting in the sun. What looks like a narrow canyon with a dead end, turns out to be a historic place. We reach a small stream and walk a little upstream to find a big overhang. The sun is warming the place, and it is obvious that people use this as a venue for barbecues and picnics. Crossing the stream once more, we arrive at another overhang, equally well protected from the outside world. Here, we finally see the rock art we have come for. On the wall, we see various animals and humans depicted in red paint.
- This art was created in the Stone Age by San and neolithic people. Back then, this must have been a great place to hide from attacks from enemies, as it would be hard to find for someone who wouldn't know. And with a supply of water, this place would provide the means to survive. We look at the various scenes depicted on the wall, and notice various kinds of animals like hippo, antilopes and eland (Liphofung means Place of the Eland), and humans in different shapes and forms. In many cases, they are medicine people or shaman who seem to be in a state of trance, and they often carry bow and arrows. Not only was this place important for people a very long time ago, King Moshoeshoe I used Liphofung caves as a hideout in the early 19th century. We would have liked to stay a little under the overhang of the cave and bask in the sun, but we still have some distance to drive and prefer to do so before sunset.
