Al Ukhdud > Saudi Arabia > Asia
[Visited: November 2022]
- When we wake up in our hotel high in the Asir mountains at Al Asouad, the skies are clear. We make sure to enjoy the landscapes before the clouds move in: we now see what remained hidden the day before. We see deep valleys, terraces on the slopes, and houses scattered in the landscape. None of the few men we see have flowers on their heads, but many have jambiyas, the traditional dagger. Again, it feels like being in Yemen. The drive from Al Asouad to Najran takes us on a deteriorating road that takes us through mountain landscapes. We reach a high point from where we have great views, both towards the Asir mountains, and towards the east where the landscape becomes a little less spectacular. We start seeing traditional mud tower houses, and when we reach the town of Dharan we drive a highway straight to Najran.
- Somehow, I had expected Najran to be an idyllic town, but it turns out to be a spread out city. After reaching the border of town, we still drive quite a while before we reach the archaeological site of Al Ukhdud. This region was settled well before the year 0, and the city of Raqmat existed here. It was the northernmost city of the kingdom of Sheba, and conquered by the Romans in 25BCE. It was an important city in the frankincense trade coming from the south, and Raqmat flourished. When Judaic warlord Dhu Nuwas conquered the city in the sixth century CE, the Christian inhabitants a choice: convert or die. They chose the latter, and he threw the people in ditches of fire. Since that event, the city was known as Al Ukhdud, or "The Ditch". It is believed that some 20.000 people suffered a terrible death. The episode is mentioned in the Quran. The city would remain part of Yemen until 1934.
- When we park our car and walk through the fence, a Saudi appears from his office. We have to register before we can enter, but entrance is free. We walk east, and walk up some steps. We are at the western entrance of the archaeological site of Al Ukhdud, and by walking in, we step back in time. Yes, in the distance we can see mountains and modern buildings, but as soon as we lower our eyes a little, we see walls of old buildings. We wonder where these neatly cut stones were mined, and how people have been able to construct these solid buildings. The ancient city seems to have had a well organised street plan. On several walls, we discover engravings, depicting horses, camels, and other animals. We realise that a strong, well developed ancient culture once was very much alive here. What remains, are dusty ruins, on which research is still going on. It is likely that many treasures are still hidden in the ground we walk on. We leave the site in awe, and step back in to the 21st century when we drive off towards the relatively nearby new city of Najran.
