Chak Chak, Iran

[Visited: May 2022]

Once upon a time, the Sassanid empire ruled the lands of Iran and adhered mostly to Zoroastrianism. According to legend, when the Arabs invaded, the royal family based in Yazd fled into the mountains and split up. Princess Nikbanu was chased towards a particularly steep mountain, and climbed it. She begged the mountain to protect her, and to the surprise of the Arabs, the mountain opened up, took Nikbanu in, and closed itself again. The Arabs brought Islam to the lands, but Zoroastrianism still survives. In the same fold of the mountain where Nikbanu fled, a shrine has been built in her memory. When I heard the story, I was determined to visit it. So here we are, after visiting the old town of Kharanaq: driving the barren landscape of mountains northeast of the great city of Yazd. We drive straight into a mountain, and my joyful driver soon has to park at the end of the road.
Before I climb up the mountain, I look up. I see what looks like a small village of modern houses. Higher up, I see trees as well. The houses accommodate pilgrims in times when they flock at this sacred place. Now, there are only a few visitors around. I make my way up the wide stairs - these were not here when princess Nikbanu climbed the mountain in fear of the approaching Arabs. After every bend, the views get better. The pilgrim residences are nothing special, but I try to imagine what this place would feel like when people from far away come here on their special mission. For them, it is a tradition that as soon as they can see the shrine, they continue their way on foot in reverence to the Sassanid princess who once fled the storming Arabs. But today, it is very quiet. A bearded old man approaches me and I pay him the entrance fee. There are a few other locals, but they are visitors, not pilgrims.
On a terrace near the shrine itself, I walk to the very edge. From here, I can oversee the houses below, as well as the valley and the mountains beyond. The tree under which I am standing is one of the very few in an otherwise brown and dry landscape. I walk to the brass doors of the shrine, remove my shoes, and enter. I immediately feel I am surrounded by peace. A huge willow grows right through the floor and the ceiling: according to legend, this is what is left of the cane that princess Nikbanu used to climb here. I have a chat with an interesting, wise lady and her guide, and when they leave, I have the shrine for myself. I sit on a bench, and listen to the dripping water. In fact, Chak Chak means drip drip: these are the tears that the mountain is crying for the loss of the beautiful princess that it protected against the enemy. This is a fire temple, and a fire is eternally burning here. It is a simple place, which is precisely what makes it so impressive, especially in combination with its serene atmosphere. I am fortunate to have all the time I want in solitude. After I leave, I walk down to some rock formations which allow me a better view of the shrine and its surrounding trees and buildings from a distance. And then, it is time to descend to the car, and drive back to Yazd with stops in Meybod at an ice house and a caravanserai.

Iran is featured in The Long Road to Cullaville

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