- After visiting the samurai district in the southwestern part of town, we head towards the eastern part of town. During the Edo period, this is where the geishas lived - and some still do, now. We start our exploration just before the bridge spanning the Asano river. We find a few quiet streets with traditional Japanese houses - a small pocket of history in Kanazawa. A short walk takes us across the Asano, and after crossing the rather busy street, we enter the Higashi Chaya district. Since Kanazawa is known for its gold, we first visit the gold leaf museum which gives us a better understanding of the tradition of gold leaf and its application. From the museum, it doesn't take long before we reach the first wooden houses of the geisha district itself. We turn left, leave the traffic behind, and start our exploration.
- We meander through some quiet streets, and see the two-story wooden houses in which geishas lived (during the Edo period, they were the only houses that could have two, instead of one, floor). We are virtually the only ones around and enjoy the silence of the neighbourhood. Then, we turn some corners, and find ourselves in a different vibe. We have reached the main street, and are surrounded by people. There are shops, there are people taking pictures, and the place gets another feel. We walk from one end to the next. On both sides of the street: the chaya for which the Higashi district is famous. The warm late afternoon, late winter sunlight makes their wooden walls stand out even better. In these houses, the geishas entertain their guests with singing and dancing. They also served tea for their guests - hence the name.
- We come across several small groups of young Japanese women wearing traditional Japanese clothes. They all smile at us, and gladly have their pictures taken. We have short talks with them, which almost inevitably leads to giggles from their side. And of course, they want pictures of us, too. It only adds to the old feel of the neighbourhood. Unfortunately, for foreigners most chaya are out of reach, only a couple are open for visitors. They give an idea of what the geisha houses looked like. When we reach the western side of the street, we come to the more commercial part of the Higashi district. Here, we find small shops, bars and restaurants. We try local sweets and tea which are all served with that meticulous and precise Japanese dedication. We come back the next morning, explore some alleys we have not seen yet, and then try the odd delicacy we have seen the day before: ice cream topped with gold leaf. It is probably the best way to end our visit to Kanazawa - the city of gold leaves.
