Americas

[Visited: January 2023]

After a great visit to Isla Umbú, we are on our way to Humaitá. Rain has started to fall, and the unpaved road we are driving on gets muddy. We are driving through a landscape of water, some trees, a farm here and there. Rarely do we see people, or indeed, another car on the road. This is a corner of Paraguay that is not visited much. When we reach Humaitá and drive through the streets, we see elegant colonial buildings that I had not expected to see. We stop several times to take pictures. The driver takes me to the end of the village. When I get out of his fourwheeldrive, I see the Paraguay river. Across the water, on the other side: Argentina. I have come to Humaitá for its historical significance. During the War of the Triple Alliance, Humaitá was the main stronghold, until it fell in August 1868.
First, I walk to the museum, but the lady is busy guiding a small group, so I walk to the nearby ruins of the San Carlos of Borromeo church instead. Built in 1861, just before the war started, it was considered to be one of the most beautiful churches in South America. Alas, it would not last long. It was destroyed during the siege of Humaitá. It has been retained just like it was when it was destroyed, to commemorate the courage of the Paraguayan soldiers. It is possible to walk through the ruins, and in a nearby tower, you can climb for views of the ruins. While I walk back to the museum, I notice cargo boats anchored in the river. I would later learn that because of low water levels, shipping has come to a halt here. The lady of the museum lets me in, and she diligently tells me about the siege of Humaitá.
When the War of the Triple Alliance started in 1864, Humaitá was one of the strongholds. It has a strategically important position on a bend in the Paraguay river. A fortification was built here, and a large amount of soldiers stationed in it. Moreover, given the fact that there are hardly roads, the river was the main artery for all countries in the region. The allies laid siege to Humaitá, and in 1868, managed to secure victory. The museum holds many artefacts from the war. Cannons, stirrups, documents, guns, and many more objects. Moreover, it has a big maquette showing the siege, and the position of the various armies. The lady explains that the attackers were bombing Humaitá from a distance; many bombs ended up destroying the church instead of the fortress. Hearing about the suffering and the destruction of the Paraguayans and their country, the visitor can only feel sad. So many sacrifices, in a war that seemed impossible for Paraguay. But Paraguayans see it differently: their forefathers defended their country. Undoubtedly, the war contributed to a strong feeling of patriotism. I find my driver sleeping in his car when I come back. While he drives me to Pilar, we have more talks, and by the time we are back in the city, I am already looking forward to my next visit.

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Humaitá (Paraguay)

Humaitá > Paraguay > Americas

[Visited: January 2023]

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