Americas

[Visited: January 2024]

Oh yes, I had heard the name Ouro Preto before. For some reason or other, I had just never been there myself. So when we were invited to attend a wedding preparing a visit to Brazil, we decided to extend our visit and travel to Minas Gerais. This is one of the largest states of Brazil, and Ouro Preto is one of the foremost destinations. We board the bus in São Paulo with anticipation, and after almost freezing in our airconditioned seats, we arrive early in what looks like a very regular bus station. The sun is just rising, and we walk up a hill to reach the Saint Francis of Paola church. This is located high above the historic city and offers great views. We will see many more churches in the following days: Ouro Preto is full of them. We descend past another tiny church, and reach our hotel where we leave our bags before we really start conquering this historic city. After a quick breakfast with a spectacular view over the historic city below, we descend through cobble-stone streets to our first destination: Basílica Nossa Senhora do Pilar. One of the richly decorated colonial churches in Ouro Preto. Indeed, overwhelmingly decorated with statues and gold inside. From here, we walk up one of the steep streets back to the main street. We visit the Casa dos Contos museum, which houses all kinds of historic objects and books. It also gives us an inside view of one of the colonial buildings.
As for the history: in the late 17th century, gold was discovered in the nearby river, and the settlement that grew around this was initially called Vila Rica (rich village). In the early 18th century, it was renamed Ouro Preto: Black Gold. The gold found here is covered with a layer of oxide. It grew to become the most populous city in the Americas - bigger than New York, São Paulo or Mexico City which seems outrageous today. It currently has less inhabitants than back in the mid 18th century. 800 tons of gold have been exported legally; it is likely that more gold has left the region in other ways. And since it was found here anyway, it was lavishly used in the many churches of Ouro Preto. Fortunately, Ouro Preto has restrictions in place for building activities, which ensures the city still looks very colonial. We continue walking the cobble-stone streets, up and down the many hills of the city, and soon realize that this town is remarkably well preserved and clean. The houses look healthy and bright, the streets are well maintained. After walking up the steep Conde de Bobadela street, we arrive at the veritable heart of Ouro Preto: Tiradentes square. Named after the nom-de-guerre of Joaquim José da Silva Xavier (meaning teeth-puller) who was also known for his work as a dentist. He led the rebellion against the Portuguese in an attempt to achieve independence from Portugal in the late 18th century. However, he was betrayed, and hanged in Rio in 1792. It would take another thirty years before Brazil actually reached independence.
On our right, we see the impressive Museum of Inconfidencia, which is dedicated to the revolt. From here, we walk down towards the east, past several more churches until we reach the Santa Efigenia church. A ceremony is taking place here, with music and singing, and one cleric is holding a statue of a saint above the crowd. People reach out to touch the saint. Old documents are shown, and then the doors of the church open and the crowd streams in. We walk down the steep street, visit several more churches and end up at the Saint Francis de Assisi, surely the most elegant of all churches of Ouro Preto. Built by famous architect Aleijadinho, it has two circular towers flanking its high body. It is one of the few churches charging an entrance fee, which is worth the money. Not only is the interior brilliant, it also has a small exhibition of other works of art by Aleijadinho. We continue our walk through the historic town, walk down to the old station, and then it gets dark and we are in for a tasty dinner in one of the many restaurants of Ouro Preto. The next morning, I am up with the sun, and have the historic town and its beautiful colonial architecture all to myself. I am rewarded with warm sunlight on the many treasures in this enormous open door museum and Unesco world heritage site. With the sun rising, it is time for breakfast. A little later, we will be on our way along the Caminho Novo towards the town of Tiradentes. Yes indeed, named after the same revolutionary.

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Ouro Preto (Brazil)

Ouro Preto > Brazil > Americas

[Visited: January 2024]

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