Asia

[Visited: April 2022]

When I decided to go to Hormuz, I had only heard some stories about its beauty. I had studied the map a little bit to estimate its size, but as always, I had tried hard not to see any images of my first destination after arriving in Iran. So when I board the boat in Bandar Abbas, my mind is completely open to what lies ahead. When the contours of the island appear in the hazy distance, I am surprised by the size of it, and the height of the mountains. After walking through the usual hubbub of people trying to sell me a hotel or a taxi, I walk around town in search of a place to stay. I find a cosy one, and another surprise is when the friendly locals invite me for a tea and a snack, even through it is ramadan. Even though it is hot, I head out for a walk in the dusty streets. I admire wall paintings (there are some really good artists here!), coloured houses, and an old Portuguese fort that apparently has been under reconstruction for a long time. When I inquire at a bike shop that is supposed to open several hours later, I find a guy willing to rent out a bike straight away. Before I know it, I am pedalling the streets and head south. I calculate that a first tour of the island should be possible.
Fortunately, there is a strong breeze, which cools me off sufficiently. The road passes some small lakes, small salt flats, and several beaches. One of them has what I think is an abandoned resort of better times, but turns out to be one that still has to be opened. It looks surrealistic in these rugged landscapes. The road starts to climb more seriously, and I push on to reach the top. Going down brings me the much wanted ventilation, and I then head to the Valley of the Statues. Capricious rock formations look like gargoyles on a Gothic cathedral, looking daringly at the sea far below. There is a narrow canyon through which I walk down, but I am appalled by the trash lying everywhere. From here, it is a short hop to the turnoff for the Red Beach. While the last bit of the road is a deep red, the beach itself is more black-silver. I walk it, and it glistens brightly. No time to take a dip though, as I still have to cycle back to town. Instead, I strike up conversations with Iranians, take their pictures, and have my picture taken with them. I continue my way around the southern part of the island, and then head up north. The last bit is flat, and the wind blows me back to town where I drink a lot to catch up on lost liquids. I then cycle to the photogenic and mysterious resort again, sit on the beach and then cycle its length.
The next morning, I wake up before sunrise, and head out with my bike again. I want to cycle around the island again, but this time, clockwise. The beginning is easy and pleasant. I take a side road that heads towards the mountains in the distance, and marvel at the brown, grey, red, and white colours. There is very little traffic on the road as I continue further south. At one point, I lay my bike on the shoulder of the road, and walk down a rocky and narrow path, squeezing myself between big boulders. At the end, I walk past a tent, and reach a deserted beach. A little further on, I take a right on a dirt track, and when I can't cycle anymore, park the bike and continue hiking. I am looking for the rainbow cave. In the distance, I hear a pack of dogs barking. There are many trails leading in all directions, but there is no one around and I end up not finding the cave. I cycle past the white mountains that look like they are snow-capped again, and take yet another turn to the Rainbow Valley. By this time, the first tuk-tuks arrive with visitors. I walk several small canyons with spectacular colours and formations of rocks and soil. At one point, it feels like I walk on a frozen brown river, with a surface full of cracks. Only, the temperature is scorching by now. No ice, no snow. This is probably the highlight of Hormuz. From here, it is an easy ride back to town where I take a much needed shower before packing my stuff, cycling to the rental guy, and head to the ferry back to Bandar Abbas. I could not have wished for more.

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Hormuz island landscapes (Iran)

Hormuz island landscapes > Iran > Asia

[Visited: April 2022]

Around the World in 80 Clicks