Asia

[Visited: October 2023]

When we took our car at the airport in Almaty, the fuel tank was half full. On the way east, there were plenty of gas stations, and I was sure to find more later. Unfortunately, this was not the case. We drove from Charyn Canyon looking at both the rapidly diminishing range of the car and the remaining distance until the nearest gas station in Jalanas. When we arrive there, with only a few kilometres autonomy left, we find out that our map is not reliable: there is no gas station at all. We drive to another one, which is closed: it is Saturday. When I ask the neighbours, they point me to another location, a few blocks west. There, we find a small station, which doesn't have the required 95 octane fuel. After some doubts and hassle, we manage to get 91 octane fuel, and drive the last stretch to Saty and further south to the end of the road. When we get off, we see Kolsai Lake 1 just below us. A cosy night in the crisp mountain air where we catch up with sleep is a good preparation for exploring the Kolsai lake area.
The next day turns out to be a perfect one for hiking. We walk down the stairs, and follow the signs for the hiking path (there is also a horse trail). We then decide I will continue solo, as I want to reach Lake 2 and we do not have much time - we have a flight to catch that evening. I hike the trail that offers sweeping views of the green lake below, the forest on its shores, and the valley ahead. After a steep descent, I see some people in a boat fishing the lake, and then, I am all alone when I continue the trail through the forest. The going is quite easy, I am never far from the Kolsai river, and work my way towards the second lake. The trail then goes higher, after which it comes down to the river again. I reach a point where the river tumbles down through the forest with rapids and tiny waterfalls, but the trail turns right here. With switchbacks, I get to do some steeper climbing until I reach the northernmost shore of Lake 2. It is time to take off my backpack and drink some water after an hour and a half of steady hiking.
Further south, I see the glistening surface of the lake, the forest on both sides, and snowy mountains looming over this landscape. I am at some 2100 metres: those mountains must be well over 3000 metres high. Behind them lies Kyrgyzstan, and Issyk-Kol lake where I traveled some thirteen years earlier. I remember a tradition I started during my cross-Central Asian journey: skinny dip in mountain lakes. So, I undress, and step into the ice cold, crystal clear water of Lake 2. After getting out, I spread my arms, and stand in the rays of sunlight while the wind dries my skin. There is a Kolsai Lake 3, but it is off limits as it lies in a military area closer to the border with Kyrgyzstan. Moreover, it is time to get back. I make my way through the forest again, hike the open section of the trail, and make several short stops on my way back along the coastline of the first lake. We are both satisfied and happy to have spent time along the shores of the lakes of Kolsai, and after a drive back to Almaty, have a very good Kazakh dinner near the skating rink of Medeu before flying to the far west of the country.

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Kolsai Lakes (Kazakhstan)

Kolsai Lakes > Kazakhstan > Asia

[Visited: October 2023]

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