Asia

[Visited: November 2023]

While driving towards Turkestan, we calculate that we can still try to get a glimpse of sunset on the famous mausoleum of Khoja Ahmed Yasawi. We drive straight there from the mausoleum of the master of Khoja Ahmed Yasawi, Arystan Bab. We park the car in a side street, and almost run into the park where the mausoleum can be found. Indeed, we are just in time: we see a warm glow emanating from the richly decorated walls of the centuries old building. It immediately reminds me of Uzbekistan because of the shapes of the cupolas and the colourful and intricate decorations and calligraphy on tiles. The last sunlight of the day sets it all on fire. We watch the shade move up on the building, and take many shots before the night starts to envelop the entire building in its dark claws.
We have not seen the mausoleum properly, and of course we are back first thing the next morning. We actually have to remove a thin layer of ice from the windshield, but when we park at the same spot as the previous day, the sun is quickly gaining strength. We admire the wall of the citadel that we have hardly paid attention to the day before, and arrive at the main point of interest in the park in which the mausoleum lies. Turkestan is one of the historic cities of Kazakhstan, and gained importance when older Otrar in the southeast went into decline. Like many cities in the wider region, it was an important trading post. Its most famous son was Khoja Ahmed Yasawi, actually born in Ispidjab, but who spent most of his life here in Yasi, as Turkestan was known a thousand years ago. He was a famous poet and Sufi teacher. After his death in 1166, he was buried in his city.
Famous and feared Timur decided to build a new mausoleum for Khoja Ahmed Yasawi, and hired the best architects and artists from across the region. He is said to have helped them design the huge building, whose dome is still the largest in Central Asia. Unfortunately, after Timur's death, the mausoleum was never completed. Indeed, we see the west side which is still uncovered. In front of it, we find the much smaller mausoleum of Rabiga Sultan Begim. When we reach the enormous vault, we see that the entrance is temporarily closed for reconstruction. We walk around the building, and enter from the east side. The sun is not shining on it now, and we go inside to explore what is accessible. We see several tombs, and of course the one of the famous Sufi himself. People are saying prayers, and we realize that for some, this is a place of pilgrimage. We also visit the small mosque and library, which is empty now but once held an important collection of books. In the main hall, although not accessible, we see the enormous bronze cauldron. Even though the building was never finished, Timur certainly managed to construct a religious monument that attracts people from all over the world until present.

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Mausoleum of Khoja Ahmed Yasawi > Kazakhstan > Asia

[Visited: November 2023]

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