Asia

[Visited: February 2024 and before]

It had been many years since I last visited Senso-ji temple, and since it is not only the oldest temple in Japan, but also the most visited religious site of the world with some 30 million visitors a year, I decided to go back again when I found myself unexpectedly in the daunting Japanese capital city. I take a subway to a nearby station in Asakusa, and walk towards the temple. When I turn a corner, there can be no mistake: I see a pompous gate with a crowd in front and under it. I cross the street to arrive at the Kaminarimon. On the enormous red lantern, I see two kanji characters, saying Thunder. This is the nickname of the gate. In fact, on the west side of the gate, I see Raijin, the God of Thunder; Kaminarimon is also known as Thunder Gate. Under the lantern, I see a dragon carved out of wood. Nearby, I notice many Japanese young women wearing traditional kimonos, taking pictures of each other at this important site of the city. The history of Kaminarimon is long and complex, and the gate has been destroyed several times by fires, earthquakes, and bombings since it was first built in the mid-10th century.
From Kaminarimon, I walk north towards the Senso-ji temple. Nakamise-Dori, the shopping street linking Kaminarimon and Hozomon Gate, is lined with shops selling traditional items, chopsticks, ceramics, and many more articles. It is a narrow street, and I try to squeeze myself through as fast as I can to reach the main temple. At the end of the street, I see two Buddha statues, and the Boshi-Jizo statue, erected for the spirits of the mothers and children who disappeared from Manchuria at the end of the Second World War. They are protected by red woollen clothes. I walk to Hozomon Gate, the main entrance to the main hall. A big red lantern hangs in the middle, and on the side, two smaller lanterns in black and gold. Close by, I see a row of white lantern, and beyond, the main hall of Senso-ji temple rises above me. People walk in and out, and of course, I also take the stairs and enter the enormous hall with red pillars. Inside, I see paintings on the ceiling and I see a big golden altar. And inevitably. I see many people praying. This is not a tourist sight, this is a functioning temple many locals turn to to carry out their religious rituals.
Outside the main hall of Senso-ji temple, I find several more solemn statues of Buddha. I find a small garden, with a pond and a stone bridge that is off limits. I continue exploring the small park here, and see several small pagodas. I see a bronze statue of Uryu Iwaku, a 19th century social worker who promoted education for girls and took care of orphans. I see other small shrines and statues. The entrance to the garden on the west side of Senso-ji is closed, so I turn around. I walk towards the Five-Storied pagoda, which dwarfs all the other buildings of the Senso-ji complex. People gather around one of the incense burners, smoke billowing from the sides. Hozomon Gate rises behind them and in the far distance, I can see the contours of Kaminarimon. More, many more people are on their way. The history of Senso-ji comes to mind: two brothers in the fishing village that Asakusa was back in the 7th century, found a statue of Kannon, the deity of mercy, in the Sumida river, and the local mayor decided to put it in his house. This would eventually evolve into the huge and bustling complex that we now call Senso-ji. It is not my first time I am here, and it is definitely also not my last. Sayonara, Senso-ji!

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Senso-ji Temple (Japan)

Senso-ji Temple > Japan > Asia

[Visited: February 2024 and before]

Around the World in 80 Clicks