Stadsaal Rock Art & Caves, Cederberg, South Africa

[Visited: February 2026]

After driving to and visiting Wupperthal, I assume I will have an hour or so to drive further south, to Stadsaal. I start driving the dirt track into the mountains in a small SUV, and after a while, pass a sign saying that 4x4 is recommended. With quite a lot of experience at driving on unpaved roads, and dry conditions, I am confident I'll manage these 38 kilometres to the next crossroads. Added bonus: a waterfall near Eselbank after around ten kilometres. The road starts to climb, with holes in it, and some sketchy parts. Also, it is narrow. But then, it seems a bit better. I think that perhaps when I make it higher up, the road will eventually flatten, and the driving will become easier. Indeed, it seems to do so. But then, I enter an area with thick sand, and make sure not to break, and continue very carefully. Then, there are a few more parts where I have to drive carefully. I now see that I have covered around five kilometres in more than 20 minutes, and realize that at this pace, it will take me almost three hours to cover the distance. Moreover, while I had a little reception in Wupperthal, there is none here. There is no traffic. I am alone. Anything happens, and I get stuck, I am in for a tricky situation. It is clear: I need to abandon plan and take the better road. I drive back all the way to Clanwilliam, then south, and on a gravel road, crossing a mountain pass, passing the village of Algeria, and arrive at the entrance of Stadsaal several hours later.
The friendly lady at the gate tells me I need to get a ticket at the park office, which fortunately turns out to be quite close. I am back in less than ten minutes, and still have time to explore Stadsaal — town hall in Afrikaans. I drive straight to the rock art site, and find a faded information board. I look at the rocks above me, but don't see any art, and then see that I can climb the rocks. A little higher up, under an overhanging rock, I immediately see what I was looking for: a group of elephants and people painted with brown-red paint on the rocks. The San people, who lived in this area for hundreds of thousands of years, made these some 3,000 years ago. It probably depicts a ritual. Unfortunately, there don't seem to be more paintings; I study the art from a distance, and read the explanatory information sign. I let the sensation of ancient history sink in.
Then, a Swiss lady unexpectedly turns up, and we walk down together. She recommends me to see the caves, which I can see across the plains, but much more than that, to do the Wolfberg Arch hike the next day. She also recommends a nearby hotel which is good value. I don't know yet how important she will become just a few hours later. I drive across the plains, and walk around the rock cave area. Rock formations, towers, holes and caves: this surely is a good place to live and find shelter. Wind and rain have eroded the sandstone here into jagged shapes, and will continue to do so. I am happy I have arrived late: the soft afternoon light bathes the rocks in a warm glow. After criss-crossing the labyrinth of rocks and boulders, I know it is time to go. I need to secure a permit for the Wolfberg Arch hike, which is going to be the highlight of my Cederberg visit.

Stadsaal Rock Art & Caves, South Africa

South Africa is featured in The Long Road to Cullaville

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