Americas

[Visited: January 2023]

The day before, I had been lucky to get the bus to Pilar. In Caazapá, the guy at the bus station had told me to get off at Paraguarì, and then wait a few hours for the bus to Pilar. It would save me going back all the way to Asunción and get the bus there. It would also give me more time in Caazapá. He also gives me two phone numbers of drivers. I tell the driver and his assistant on the bus to Paraguarí that I should get off where I can catch the bus to Pilar, and when they finally do so, they tell me the bus will pass by exactly where they drop me off. I enjoy the sunshine until the sun disappears behind the trees, and then go into a restaurant for something to eat. I double check with the employees, and they confirm that the bus to Pilar should pass here between 8-8:30. While eating, I decide to send a message to the two drivers. One of them tells me he is not on duty, and the other leaves me a voice message, with music in the background - live from the bus. He is on the way. When I tell him I am at the restaurant, he tells me that he will take the road leading around town, and that he will be there at 8. He explains where he will pass, and I see on my map that it's 2,3 km away. I grab my bags, and start to walk fast, and even run in parts in the warm subtropical night. When I put down my bags, it's 8, and I am drenched in sweat. Within two minutes, the bus arrives, and before I know it, I am stretched out on a comfortable seat and on my way to Pilar. When I arrive, it is past midnight.
The next morning, I wake up under a grey sky and pouring rain. I first go to Isla Umbú and Humaitá, and come back much later than expected. By that time, the sun has wiped the rain away, and there are only threatening dark clouds in the distance. It is time for ice cream, and then I decide to walk west towards the old part of town. I climb the dyke to the promenade on the river, but it turns out to be neglected. Moreover, the water level is very low, so I decide to descend into the streets of Pilar. I find a monument to the Tereré Monument, the gourd and bombilla without which no Paraguayan in their right mind would ever leave home. Close by, I find the Nuestra Señora de Pilar church, where people are getting ready for a service. I wait outside, until a cloud has sailed away to give the sun the chance to shine on the church facade and render its beauty to the full. From here, I start cruising the rectangular grid of Pilar. Quite soon, I start falling in love with the city. There is no pretence here, the streets are virtually empty, and I have the beauty of the colonial buildings all to myself. No wonder this is sometimes called the Pearl of Paraguay. I walk down one of the streets leading west. Towards the Paraguay River, which here also is the border with Argentina.
The banks of the river are high, and the water is very low (in fact, several ships are waiting to sail downstream) - and I want to reach water level. I walk down the steep bank, through sand, until I reach the beach. I sit on a small boat to watch the sun sink towards the horizon. There are many clouds adding drama to the view. Argentina seems so close now, yet I will not reach it this time. I turn back, walking different streets until I find a restaurant where I have a very tasty dinner. The next morning, I am up early, to see Pilar in a different light. I cruise the Avenida Mariscal López, the main street where I find an array of statues and monuments. Near the town hall, I see a mural depicting famous women. It only makes me like Pilar more. I continue to criss-cross the streets again, see many brightly painted houses. I want to visit the Casa de la Cultura, but unfortunately, it is closed - the opening times are erratic here. I walk a street with umbrellas casting a shade, and then see several more monumental buildings. I get into an interesting talk with a family on the street. They invite me for lunch, but unfortunately I have a bus to catch. I walk back to the main square, and visit the Museo Cabildo de Pilar, which gives a good insight into the history of this surprising city and some background of several famous Paraguayans. From here, I walk back to the ice cream shop, pick up my stuff from the hotel, and hop on the bus back to Asunción.

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Pilar (Paraguay)

Pilar > Paraguay > Americas

[Visited: January 2023]

Around the World in 80 Clicks